Sri Lanka

(സൃ ലങ്ക)

 We arrived in Colombo airport at around 2:30am, after travelling since 7pm the previous evening. Thankfully, the guest-house driver was there to pick us up. He was up for a chat and talked for the whole 30 minute drive, mostly about the recent developments in the civil war. He was very happy that the government had won a military victory over the LTTE and was full of praise for the current president. Heeding the general advice not ‘talk about the war’ I just listened, and Kate slept in the back. Our driver (Sunil) also warned us against going to Hikkduwa because it was full of dope-smoking, drunk young men who harass western women. He suggested staying elsewhere.

The first thing both of us noticed was how clean the streets are compared to India.
It was around three when we arrived at our hotel in Negombo. I was so tired I couldn’t get to sleep.

We both woke at about ten. The owner of the guesthouse was a friendly guy called Mark. We had some breakfast, including some good filtered coffee, and decided to head to Hikkaduwa right away. We left at about 12:30 and arrived at around 4. Mark (the owner) drove us.

The most prominent feature of the drive from Colombo was the abundance of political posters. There is a presidential election coming up on January 26, but by looking at the posters, you would think there was only one man running. Posters of the current president are everywhere, on every streetcorner, roundabout, shopfront and billboard. There are various types, from the president advancing triumphantly, with his arms in the air, to pictures of him looking gruff with some men with machine guns or navy boats in the background. There are various ‘thankyou armed forces’ posters around the place too, but in all of them, the president’s face appears. It is remarkable because the incumbent has completely appropriated the armed forces for his political campaign. Many of the victory posters appear quite triumphalist, but I cannot read the Sinalese (which is an amazing script) to confirm. In addition to all the posters, when driving through Colombo, there is a solder with an assault rifle every 100m or so.

As we drove down the coast road, the damage from the tsunami was still visible. Ruined houses, sometimes just the foundations, sit just off the roadside in land that looks as though it has been bulldozed. Some boats are rotting 20 or 30 metres from shore, having been washed up there. There are many many, China-Sri-Lanka, Japan-Sri-Lanka, and various other country-Sri-Lanka aid plaques along the way.

In Hikkaduwa, we had booked two nights at ‘Mambos’ hotel/guesthouse, just in front of the ‘A-frame’ surf shop. We picked it because we thought it would be closest the main break at Hikkaduwa, and it is right in front of it. Our original room was on the third floor and had great views over the break. We also found the dope-smoking, long-haired layabouts we were warned about – they all work here. All 15 discs of Bob-Marley’s greatest hits are on repeat and the decor has a distinctive Jamaican - our curtains are red, yellow and green. It was difficult to get some sense out of anyone at first – how much for a board, do they have laundry, does the air-con work, how long are the rooms available for, and there were many red-eyes and blank stares. We’ve since worked out that the ‘managers’ of the hotel are at their best before about 3pm.

The first night was extremely hot. The fan was not really working and the AC definitely did not work. The next morning we decided to pay a little extra ($5 a night) and get a room with air conditioning. It has been worth every cent.
On our second day we decided that we liked this place a lot (and they decided to include our breakfast, which was nice). Somehow, in defiance of all logic, this is an extremely well-run, clean, friendly place. We felt very comfortable and welcome with all the people (especially the long-haired layabouts, who just this evening asked us to join them in smoking a giant hookah, with the additional incentive of many different flavours, of course, we declined, but appreciated the gesture) who run the place like a big house (it is difficult at times to get things organised, but that doesn’t matter, we’re not in a rush). So we are staying here until the 12th of December.

Its hard to describe how hot it is. On the weather it might say 29 or thirty degrees, but they should just say – “only go out in the morning and at night or you will shrivel on the roadside”.

Hikkaduwa is a great place. Its everything we imagined it to be – palm-lined beach, coral reef, clean water and good surf. But what makes it is, for a place that is rapidly developing, how warm the people are. Sometimes I find myself shaking my head at just how friendly the place is. Everywhere there is a smile and a hello. Even the beach-front vendors are friendly.

There are two unfriendly guys in Hikkaduwa – one walks around carrying a monkey tied to a string and a 10ft python in a sack demanding money from tourists. The other must be the father of the owner of this hotel, who comes down from his room at nine every morning wearing a traditional sarong and a billabong cap (flat brim, tilted just to the side) and berates all the young-guys for an hour or so. I assume it is a lecture about how they are not going to make anything of themselves or something like that.

The surf has been good. The water is hot. I’m not used to sweating in the water.

I have hired a 6’3 board which is in pretty good shape. The main point is a left-right peak. I think the right is faster and has more shape than the left – but they are both good. Day 1 was about 4ft, but because we arrived there in the afternoon, it was a bit onshore. Days 2 and 3 were about 6ft and offshore until 10 in the morning. Day 4 was about 4ft again, and offshore until about 1pm. The last few days have been smaller (2ft, but with 3ft sets) but it’s still good fun. The winds have been offshore in the morning, and then light until about 1pm. By 4:30 or five, the winds back right off again (usually accompanied by a storm) and sometimes go offshore. The forecast is for small waves for the next for days, but picking up from Thursday to Saturday (we leave Sunday morning).

On the first three or four days (when it was 6ft), I more or less had the main point to myself. It has become more crowded since then, but my strategy (unless it is very good) is to skip the morning surf, have a leisurely breakfast and then put in a long session between 11 and 2 when people go in for lunch. It really works, when I woke up this morning, there might have been 10-15 people surfing a 2ft peak. At lunch, I was the only one out.

Kate has been surfing. She has a fin chop on her thigh to prove it. Her arms are tired and sore, but she is standing up and carving the reef-breaks. She has also been standing on the reef, but I’ve suggested that may not be such a good idea. I met an English guy in the surf today who trod on an urchin last season. It went right through his foot and came out the other side. One spine was lodged in his bone and required surgery. He didn’t seem bothered though, as he said ‘the hospital was only 30 bucks, cheaper than the hotels here. You get air-con, three meals and the nurses are hot – they all wear white socks”. (??)

This guy was among the more tame Europeans staying here. There are a lot of Germans, but also a lot of French and English. There are very few Australians. Last night we went to restaurant next door and were entertained/embarrassed was three fat, semi-naked plastered English guys playing frank Sinatra classics and twisting coloured balloons into shapes and fixing them on the waiters head. One very thin, frail, member of the group put a motorbike helmet on (I don't know why) but could not hold his head up afterwards. We thought he was about to die.

There is no way they would do that at home. It’s funny, but in a pitiful way.

So we have been passing the days surfing, playing ping-pong and chess, riding bikes, walking along the beach, laying on the beach, and eating. Mostly its surfing and playing ping-pong. Kate had the upper hand early, but i’ve revised my serving technique and now am a formidable force. Considering I have relegated Dad, I reckon I’m in enough form to take on Simon.

The one variation occurred on our anniversary, when we visited Galle and walked around the old Dutch fort. We got about halfway through the streets before succumbing to the heat and returning to Hikkaduwa. We were tempted to go to the hospital and see if another immaculate conception was on the cards, but we figured that only happens every couple of thousand of years, and since it happened around this time in 1981, it was unlikely to happen again in 2009.

Sri-Lanka is much more expensive than India, although it does depend on where you eat. For lunch we have been visiting a little ‘roti’ restaurant that does 58 different kinds. Rotis, at least according to this restaurant’s interpretation are layers and layers of fried, thin pastry. You can put fillings in them like pasties, but flat. On the first day I had a tomato, cheese, avocado one and have frequented the restaurant since. Kelly, these things are made for you – if quarantine wasn’t going to arrest me, I’d bring one home in my pack.

I have also been trying to find a traditional sri-lankan curry, but its difficult to locate among the seafood platters and French fries. I have had one at the restaurant here, but it was not very good.

Last night there was a trance party at our guesthouse. We went to bed at a respectable 9:30, but did not get to sleep until 4am. Apparently every time there is a party, one group of local boys comes down and fights the other group of local boys for the women attending that night. I guess this is where the night scene has received is bad name.

Tomorrow we are getting on the bus to Unawatuna. Apparently there is a mellow point break there for Kate to practice on. Over the next week we will also visit Mirissa, Midigama and Ahangama, as they are all supposed to have good surf.

On the 13th, we leave for Yala national park to hopefully see some elephants and crocodiles in the wild. Then we spend four nights in the hills before going back to Negombo.

We really are having a great time here and relishing the opportunity to rest.

Our love to you all, and we are looking forwards to coming home. Our flight is due to arrive at 8:35pm on 21 December.

Love Kate and Charles.